Cleaner, straighter and longer waves

DID I put the hex on us last week when I said, 'if it turns or stalls near us'?

Well no, I swear it wasn't me. But that ECL that was down south did motor north along the coastline.

It crossed back out to sea over south-east Queensland, stalled, and then almost right on cue intensified once again.

Then it turned to the south and threw itself straight back towards our region with reckless abandon.

Geez, maybe I'll need to be more careful what I write in the future.

Just kidding folks, but we did get a reasonable hammering from that system, and some lumpy swell too, although not as much as many were predicting would hit.

I heard calls that we could expect upwards of 4m, but 2-2.5m is much closer to the reality of what we got.

Unfortunately this time round, it was just very windy, closely bunched up, lumpy short period swell with constant rain.

Or to put it simply, it was more a case of a few days of stormy seas, with not many quality waves.

But there is hope on the horizon as yesterday and today's westerlies should settle it down a little, and hopefully straighten out the swell as well.

By this weekend, it will be smaller, but the chances are it will also be a cleaner, straighter and longer period easterly swell, and that bodes well for our region.

Saturday and Sunday should see us receiving consistent swell, E 1-2m (10-13sec) which is enough to produce some reasonable beach breaks.

Especially on Saturday as the winds will be predominantly W/SW 5-10kts. However Sunday could see a shift in the wind towards the S/SE 10-15kts.

This will reduce the options of clean surf and increase the crowd concentration. So Saturday morning is the best bet.

There is a potential spanner in the works.

A massive southern ocean low, is due to pass below NZ. It's predicted to be held down there by the high that now resides in the Tasman Sea.

We should feel the effects of this system in the form of stronger winds around Tuesday. However that high is unstable.

If it collapses, the low could slip up into the Tasman, bringing long period S swell, and much stronger S winds with it.

So keep an eye on the surface pressure charts, and keep yourself inform-ed of what's happening with that system.

Check out Ben's website.

Topics:  surfing weather

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